The modern blazer is the heritage of two older jacket styles: the double breasted which comes from the British army and the single breasted worn at rowing clubs. Nowadays blazers can be found both in single and double breasted styles. They utilize a wide range of colors and patterns and most of the time they are enriched with such details as brass buttons and patches.
Anyway, before buying a blazer you should make sure that the one that you’re trying on right now fits you like a glove.
The most important measurement: the chest
Take your tailor’s soft measuring tape and measure around the fullest part of your chest, just below your arms. This is the most important measurement to take when you’re buying either an off-the-rack or a tailored blazer, as it determines the fit and the size of your blazer.
A well-fitted shoulder should have enough room to allow full arm movement, while lying flat on your body.
The Blazer Closure
In order to taste the fit of a single-breasted blazer, close only one button (even if it is a three-button jacket). The two sides should meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward off your body. It is important that the front of the blazer doesn’t show strain lines radiating outward from the button (the so- called “Dreaded X”, see the picture below) or that the edges flare out like a skirt.
Blazer sleeve length
The blazer sleeve should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist. The shirt cuff has to be seen just a little (1/4 to ¾ inch of shirt cuff when standing straight).
The jacket length should always cover your back side. Ideally it should stop down to the point where your butt starts to curve back inward.
The blazer collar should rest against your shirt collar, without significant gaps in between. Before buying a jacket, I suggest that you turn around and take a look at your back in a mirror: if the blazer collar is too tight, you will see some bunching and folds just beneath it.
Finally, remember that details make the real gentleman. It is not about wearing the latest trend: it’s about finding the design that best suits your body and personality. You can find your custom blazer that fits your flawlessly from Hockerty.
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