As you are here, reading this blog post, you have already realized that looking great in a suit is not only about suiting up and showing up – it’s about the suit fit, too. Many things can go wrong here - the pants cannot be baggy, the suit jacket too long – there are a few rules to follow to get a great suit fit.
The fit is also the main difference between a made to measure suit and the one bought off the rack. In case you do not have generic model measures, the suit will never fit you perfectly in all areas. Try getting That One suit you will always wear made to you measures, so you can look your best in all black tie events.
Let us break down the main differences between a made to measure and an off the rack suit.
How should a suit fit?
A made to measure men’s suit will always create a clean, sleek figure. There will not be too much fabric anywhere and the overall impression will not disclose any faults. Having just about the right amount of fabric also means the suit will not crease extensively. This rule is just a basic general perception – when you look at the suit, you will always have a good feeling that it fits well. And it will because it is made specifically for that one person.
The suit jacket is the most important suit part because it dominates the look. So many things can be wrong about a suit jacket, so it's a good idea to play it safe and have it made to your measures. Firstly, the width – make sure that you can button up the suit jacket easily. The made to measure jacket is always wide enough for the buttons to meet, but without any spare material on the back of it. No worries about the jacket being too tight when you sit – it is a must-be-followed rule to unbutton the jacket when sitting down.
When you have a jacket that fits your body well, it will lie perfectly flat on your shoulders. It is hard to find a good fit here among the off the rack suits if you do not have a standard, generic figure. The properly tailored suit jacket will not pull on your shoulder, but will not hang at the same time.
As for the jacket length, the correct length can be measured with the help of your hands. Place them next to your body in a relaxed manner and check if the jacket falls around the middle of your hand (where the fingers begin) – this is the correct suit jacket length for your height.
The sleeve length is another crucial factor to take into account when deciding whether to go made to measure or off the rack. The made to measure jacket will be tailored according to your individual arm length and to keep the rule of showing approximately 1 – 1, 5 cm of your shirt cuff. It is enough to see a hint of your cufflinks without revealing more; anything more than that or less than that stands for an incorrect sleeve length.
Even though modern fits often feature shorter pants versions, the majority of gentlemen still follow the classic trouser break rule. The “break” is a small wrinkle of the pants above the shoe, where the two meet. This break should feature one crease only, which demonstrates the proper pants length made to your personal measures. Of course, when sitting down, you will show more of your leg but suit socks will cover it. This is how a perfect suit pants should fit. When buying off the rack, it may happen that your pants will be too short - avoid showing your bare leg at all costs.
We will not go into too much detail about how slim or tailored the suit should be, as it depends on the style you go for. However, remember this – even if not going for a slim fit suit, your jacket and pants need to fit well. This means that there is no room for baggy clothing or extra material and creasing within any suit style or fit. Too much material simply means a bad fit.
If you want to take a look at our selection of made to measure suits, check out our collection. At Hockerty, all suits are made to you measures and they will wrap your body perfectly. And when we talk about made to measure, we really mean 100% made to measure from scratch. Adjustments in premade off the rack garments will never fit the same way as a suit that has been tailored considering your body measurements since the first cut. We also offer you endless options of design and customization, so your suit not only feels perfectly done but looks unique too. Give it a try and order one of our high quality made to measure suits today.